Somehow or another, Pino Rogano has always existed under the radar. His family tree doesn't boast any big names or celebrity chefs, but ask around and some might say his Italian cured meats and meatball sandwiches knock the pantalonis off Salumi or any other Italian purveyor in town.

Rogano has just moved da Pino, his tiny meat shop and cafe, from the Rainier Valley to Ravenna. It's a good move. After years of supplying the likes of Matt's in the Market, Lampreia and Brad's Swingside Cafe, and of course throwing together a few meatball sandwiches to make grown men cry, it looks like he's finally getting some of the fanfare he deserves.

This isn't his first stint here. Back before Salvatore on Roosevelt was Salvatore, it was Verdi's Caffe del'Opera, owned by Rogano in the late ‘80s. Ravenna, perennially starved for more decent restaurants, is welcoming him back with open, hungry arms.

The tiny cafe in the former retail space of Leah's Bakery on 65th (which has scaled back its operations to just catering) is hosting lunch and dinner from a short specials board and menu of antipasti, gelato, desserts, and hot and cold sandwiches.

With only four tables, you can also take them to go, or buy yourself a hunk of his homemade sausage, coppa or wild boar salami to take home. As for what to do with it when you get there, Rogano offers this suggestion: "Get some crusty bread, a bottle of red wine, then call me. We'll eat."  

What's on your table? E-mail cellerd@gmail.com.

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