Columbia City's Island Soul merges regional cuisines with winning results

You knew Caribbean food had soul. But did you ever envision soul food from the Caribbean?

If Island Soul, the newest addition to Columbia City's restaurant row, had an ounce of pretension, they might start throwing around words like "fusion." Instead, they're calling their miraculous marriage of Jamaican and American Southern cooking a lucky accident, and everyone else is just calling it awesome.

Chef Theo Martin and his wife, Gaelyn, arrived in Columbia City via the Central District, where they operated Casuelita's Island Soul on Judkins Place for three years. There, a menu full of soul food fell into the hands of Jamaican kitchen staff, and a winner was born.

They've got all the staples of Southern cooking: red beans and rice, corn bread and collard greens. Add some coconut milk to rice and beans and you get the classic Caribbean side dish, rice and peas. Or use it to sweeten the corn bread, which comes with every entree, and suddenly you've got something people will trek miles for. After two weeks in business in their new digs, word had spread, and they were selling out of it by dinnertime.

Some entrees are decidedly from the islands, like Caribbean Jerk Chicken ($11.95) and the heavenly Curried Goat Dinner ($14.95), served with rice and peas or basmati rice and perfectly stewed, not-too-greasy collard greens.

Others are classics from the South, like the Barbecue Chicken Dinner ($11.95), smoked "Island style," and the rich and fatty Oxtail Stew ($16.95). Others fall somewhere in between, like the Bayou Gumbo ($18.95), with prawns, crab, smoked chicken and beef hot links, served with basmati rice and coconut corn bread.

The Island Soul in a Bowl is a perfect way to sample both styles: curry goat, jerk chicken and oxtails are accompanied by rice and peas, collards and corn bread.

Little has changed in the move to Columbia City except for the name. The Martins dropped the Casuelita's association once and for all -- it was once a sister restaurant to the Belltown Caribbean favorite, which is operated by Martin's cousin. But as their menus have diverged considerably, the only thing that links them now, says Gaelyn Martin, "is a lotta love."

They also now offer more options for the many vegetarians they count among their followers. The Tamal Azteca ($12.95) layers tortillas, roasted-vegetable feta, Parmesan and ricotta with a sauce of chipotle tomatoes. Many of the classic preparations, like jerk and curry seasoning, are applied to tofu instead of meat.

Lunch offers many of the same combinations in sandwich form: jerk chicken or pork, and barbecue chicken, pork or tofu with coleslaw or house salad ($7.50).

The liquor license is still pending, but in the meantime there are plenty of good quenchers to wash it all down: tropical fruit juices, Jamaican Ting and ginger beer. And with the room's bright colors, cheery atmosphere and tropical good mood, you get all the pick-me-up you need.

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