Delicious, simple Southwestern food is cuisine origami: Wrap cheese and sauce in a tortilla this way, and it's a taco. Fold it that way, it's a burrito. Add an egg, and ta-da! ... it's huevos rancheros. The migas (mee-yas) at Portage Bay Café ($11.95) in the University District is like all three rolled into one and served piping hot for breakfast. One enormous flour tortilla, lightly grilled, is filled with a messy mound of roughly scrambled eggs, heaped with shredded sharp cheddar and sour cream, and spiked with a smoky adobo sauce, heavy with chipotle heat. A pile of golden, spiced potatoes finishes the job of filling you to the point of a belt adjustment. We can never finish a whole plateful, but we're certainly happy to try.
What do you crave? Which local restaurant makes the breakfast dish that drives you to distraction? Post a comment below and tell us about it.
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