Joule in Wallingford gets casual with a weekly "Urban BBQ"

In the dog days of summer, it can be hard to muster the energy to throw patties on the grill, let alone mastermind a meal with all the major food groups. Which is precisely where the genius of Joule's Urban BBQ series comes in.

Every Sunday this summer at the Wallingford eatery, chef Rachel Yang will cook a group of light, well-composed dishes centered around a single theme (past themes included Operation Clambake and Hail to the Vegetables), focusing on casual fun and affordable prices. The result is part foodie haven, part block party -- and a whole lot of fun.

Urban BBQ's main focus, of course, is the food, which nicely showcases Yang's subtle touch. On a recent Sunday, the theme was The Italian Job, and Yang's restraint as a chef shone in dishes like fried zucchini blossoms stuffed with housemade ricotta ($5).

In the wrong hands, these appetizers can be a greasy mess, but Yang somehow managed to make deep fried cheese into a light appetizer -- and the pool of fresh tomato sauce that accompanied them had just enough tang to cut through the ricotta's creaminess.

Simplicity also made the seafood platter ($12), a plate of grilled tuna belly, shrimp and squid, barely seasoned with a whisper of lemon. The delicate flavors of the fish were complemented, not overwhelmed, by the deep smokiness of the grill. It was perfect for a muggy July evening, and I could almost smell the salty air of the Adriatic.

As with any backyard cookout, the food can take a backseat to the atmosphere. Joule is usually a fine-dining destination, but the simple addition of paper lanterns and a self-serve drinks station transformed the restaurant into an informal cafe.

Service was unhurried, but not slow. Groups were jovial, and diners swapped tips on the best dishes to order. The friendly vibe was helped along by the self-serve beer and wine, and there were soft drinks and lemonade for kids and non-drinkers.

Urban BBQ is structured so you can make it a meal, or just stop in for a snack. And if the weather is just too good to dine inside, ask for your order to go (Joule uses eco-friendly containers) and take your moveable feast a few blocks north to Meridian Park.

Urban BBQ will be served from noon to 8 p.m. every Sunday through August 17, with live jazz from 2 to 4 p.m. Upcoming themes include Food on a Stick (July 27) and Dreaming of Pigs (Aug 10). For more information, including a complete lineup, visit www.joulerestaurant.com/bbq.

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