It's Thursday night and I've been invited to "church," as the neighborhood faithful refer to the weekly wine tasting at Maple Leaf Wine Cellar [0]. "It's all about connecting in the neighborhood, and that's my kind of church," says Jill Zawatski. Amen. Zawatski and husband Paul built up the Cellar's impressive, microcosmic selection before recently turning over the reigns to People's Pub [0] co-founder, Jon Norris. The flock need not fear -- big plans are in the works including an expansion into the larger street level retail space above, facing Roosevelt Way. "More merchandise; racks, glassware, accessories and the like," says Norris. He also plans eventually to apply his extensive beer knowledge with a section devoted to brew. The Zawatskis will continue to be involved in special events, catering, classes and - of course - the weekly oenological [1] go-to-meeting.
Benjamin Franklin once said, "Wine makes daily living easier, less hurried, with fewer tensions and more tolerance." I can think of a long list of people who should really get to know that philosophy, but in the meantime old Ben's got a bead on the room this particular evening. The crowd ebbs and flows around the tasting bar, swirling, swizzling, sipping, nibbling cheese and crackers. A wine rep holds forth on the virtues of sustainable, organic viticulture while carefully selecting bottles to go. (Note: MLWC is a favorite among industry insiders, like a diner patronized by chefs.) A local winemaker wanders in after a long day of crush. Trendy young urbanites mingle with not-so-trendy older urbanites. Passersby wander in off the street. Novices mix with connoisseurs. This is a snoot-free zone. Wine snobs (you know who you are) are welcome as long as you keep your inner Robert Parker [2] in check. And if you're Robert Parker, feel free to drop by ...
It's easy to feel comfortable here. First of all, the Cellar really is a cellar. It's kind of like what you might do to your basement if you only had the time and money and another place to put all your junk. Exposed pipes and beams enhance the ambience, mingling almost organically with soft earth tones. The track lighting and original art on the walls lend a bit of a gallery feel. The complete lack of pretense in the room just makes it cozy.
And then there's the wine.
Like any wine shop worth its pinot, a tour of the racks is a walk around the world. But what makes this shop so special is the depth and breadth of the journey in such an intimate space. The philosophy here is closer to the old adage, "The customer's always right." Most of the inventory's passed several taste tests, the most important being that of the Thursday congregation. Prices and bottles range from $7 for something like the Deakin Estate Shiraz to $134 for the likes of a 1999 Le Pigeonnier du Chateau LaGrezette from France.
The crowd begins to thin out. Decisions are made; bottles are selected, paid for and bagged. The flock bids adieu for another week. The service is over. The wine rep's among the last to leave with an enviable case he's assembled as take-out. "I get to write it off as 'research,'" he quips. Can I get an "amen"?
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