Lakes and tarns glitter in alpine splendor

What's the difference between a tarn and a lake? If you go as far as Wildcat Lakes, you'll get a feel for the difference, because you'll see both.

Webster's dictionary defines a lake as a "considerable body" of standing water and a tarn as a "small, steep-banked mountain lake or pool."

Snow Lake conforms to the definition of a lake. We won't dwell on it, since it has been described here before and appears in most guidebooks. However, a measure of solitude and challenging hiking can be found beyond Snow Lake, even on a summer weekend.

Snow Lake Trail No. 1013 begins at the end of Alpental Road (3,100 feet) near Snoqualmie Pass. We enjoyed views of Chair Peak, Bryant Peak and the Tooth as we hiked to the junction for the Source Lake Overlook at 1.5 miles. From there the trail gains about 1,200 feet to a saddle above Snow Lake and enters the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

As you descend from the saddle, you may hear screams coming from the lake, the reactions of hikers brave enough to plunge into the icy water. Most people stop at Snow Lake, fewer continue to the smaller jewel of Gem Lake.

Snow Lake was merely a rest stop for us on this Mountaineers club conditioning hike. As we continued toward Gem, we enjoyed the scenery as the trail wove through forest and meadows sprinkled with flowers, tarns and views of Snow Lake, still dotted with miniature icebergs.

We took another break at a junction (4,100 feet) where Trail No. 1013 continues, descending to trail No. 1003 in the Middle Fork Snoqualmie valley. That seldom-hiked stretch of Trail 1013 would have to wait. Our goal was Lower Wildcat Lake, a 14-mile hike with about 3,500 feet elevation gain.

From the junction we turned onto the Lakes Trail (No. 1012). By the time our party of 10 reached Gem Lake, we were ready for another break as it was hot and humid. Gem was so inviting that some of our party wanted to relax there rather than continue to Lower Wildcat. A turnaround time was established and four of us continued.

We hiked to a pass above Gem Lake, where a faded sign reassured us we were heading in the right direction. I'd been to Lower Wildcat before, but trail conditions can change, especially on routes that are not maintained. Only strong, experienced hikers with good knees and navigational skills should attempt Lower Wildcat Lake; and a map and compass are essential. From the pass, the trail drops 1,000 feet to Lower Wildcat Lake (3,900 feet), about two miles from Gem.

The trail switchbacks steeply, descending on talus and dirt. Though we dreaded that 1,000 feet of elevation gain on the way out, we pressed on. However, determination may not be enough to help you find your way.

At the end of the switchbacks, the "fun" begins. At times we felt as if the trail was toying with us, playing a cruel game of cat and mouse. We crossed streams and boulder fields, followed cairns (old-timers call them "ducks") where tread was almost non-existent and passed tarns as the trail ducked in and out of the forest.

We also faced a confusion of social trails winding crazily through forest, plus blueberry shrubs and a tangled necklace of tarns. Some folks call these "bunny trails" and you'll often find them near remote lakes.

Here an altimeter may be your best friend. When we got to Lower Wildcat Lake, the altimeter indicated we had descended exactly 1,000 feet. Lower Wildcat is the end of the trail. Upper Wildcat Lake is remote and difficult to access.

We had passed turnaround time, so we shot a couple of we-were-there photos and wet our bandanas. On our way out, I took up the rear and let my faster companions hustle to Gem Lake to reunite with our friends, lest they begin to worry. Indeed, they had begun to feel concern, but we were forgiven.

As much as we enjoyed the splendid scenery on our way back, the sight of the parking lot was a thing of beauty and reason to celebrate.

If you go

* Getting there -- From Seattle take Interstate 90 east to Snoqualmie Pass and get off at Exit 52 (West Summit). Turn left, go under I-90 and drive two miles on Alpental Road (No. 9040) to the parking lot and Snow Lake trailhead and facilities, elevation 3,100 feet. A Northwest Forest Pass is required -- permits to enter the Alpine Lakes Wilderness are at the trailhead. Allow about an hour and 15 minutes from Seattle.

* Trail data -- It is six miles round trip to Snow Lake, elevation gain approximately 1,500 feet. Gem Lake is about 10 miles round trip, elevation gain approximately 2,400 feet. Lower Wildcat Lake is about 14 miles round trip, with about 3,500 feet of gain. The map is Green Trails No 207 Snoqualmie Pass.

* Information -- Refer to "55 Hikes Around Snoqualmie Pass" by Harvey Manning and Ira Spring (Mountaineers, 189 pages, $14.95). Call the Snoqualmie Ranger District at North Bend at 425-888-1421 for road and trail conditions or visit the Web site at www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/.

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