You'll pay for the views

You'd better be jolly if you take this hike on a hot day, especially with time constraints. You may find yourself grumbling well before you get to the summit because the trail is anything but good-natured.

Want solitude? If so, this trail is ideal since few hikers tackle it in summer because you have to gain a lot of elevation for views that are more easily gotten from other trails. True, you may run into an occasional horseback rider or motorbike, but I had this multiple-use trail all to myself on a recent day.

The Cayuse Campground, where Jolly Mountain Trail (No. 1307) begins, is closed for reconstruction. For now the trail is accessed from a temporary trailhead off Forest Service Road No. 4315 (Little Salmon la Sac Road), shortly before the Cayuse Campground. Hikers familiar with the region sometimes drive farther up that road for a shorter approach to Jolly Mountain, but the road may be gated.

The sign for the trail detour is hard to miss. I parked on the shoulder of the Forest Service road and a few feet up the road found the signed detour. The detour is a short, easy walk on an old road -- just follow the signs with directional arrows until you intersect the main trail near the campground.

After the detour, the Jolly Mountain Trail begins a steep climb through clearcuts that were taking the brunt of the hot August sun. Some stretches of the trail are badly eroded and you may want trekking poles for support.

After gaining about 1,200 feet, the trail crossed a road and resumed climbing. I was startled when about 40 crows -- disturbed by my presence -- burst from a tree as if shot out of a cannon. They circled overhead cawing, diving and making a general ruckus. After I climbed another 400 feet or so, the trail crossed another old road and it was harder to tell where the route resumed.

A flutter of pink flagging helped me spot the trail again -- the flagging is useful, as that stretch is overgrown and it's a tight squeeze through vegetation.

Eventually the vegetation and steep, loose terrain settled down to a kinder trail with evergreens, shade and an occasional breeze. Near Salmon la Sac Creek, the cow parsley towered over me and fluttered prettily in the breeze, its white flowers covered with small orange butterflies. This creek is your last chance to refill a water bottle on this dry, dusty trail.

At about three miles, I came to a trail junction with old trail signs and one temporary sign. Here Trail No. 1307A descends to the Paris Creek Trail (No. 1393.1). Hikers can make a loop that involves a car shuttle to the Paris Creek trailhead.

I stopped for a snack, though it was a dark, introspective spot without views. From the junction, the Jolly Mountain Trail continued its relentless climb through subalpine forest interspersed with small meadows. Most flowers have passed their prime.

An extremely steep, eroded stretch led to the crest of Sasse Ridge (5,600 feet), where the Sasse Mountain Trail (No. 1340) comes in at four miles and views begin. The views were not as grand as the 360-degrees views from the summit of Jolly, but they were enough to make me quit grumbling and gave me a sense of accomplishment.

From the ridge I looked across to impressive Lemah Mountain, but could not identify the other peaks without a map. I climbed another 100 feet or so to a minor high point on the ridge to further enjoy the views earned on this not-so-pleasant trail.

From the junction with the Sasse Ridge Trail, the Jolly Mountain Trail continues along the ridge a short way to a junction where the West Fork Teanaway Trail (No. 1353) descends to the Middle Fork of the Teanaway.

Stay on the crest and climb to a saddle at 5,980 feet and the last trail junction, where Trail No. 1353 appears again and descends to the Middle Fork of the Teanaway. Keep climbing and in about a half-mile you'll top out on Jolly Mountain at 6,443 feet.

From the summit, enjoy views of the Stuart Range to the east, Mount Daniel to the north, Mount Rainier to the south, the Dutch Miller Gap peaks to the west and Cle Elum Lake below.

This hike is more scenic earlier in the year when the spring flowers are emerging, or in September when the slopes glow with the slow fire of vine maple.

In general I found the descent more difficult than the climb -- loose rocks, about the size of baseballs, made for slow going on the way down and the crows were waiting for me, filling the sky like angry black kites.

If you go

* Getting there -- Take Interstate 90 east and get off at Roslyn (Exit 80). Turn left and drive about 2.8 miles to state Route 903. Turn left and go through the towns of Roslyn and Ronald. Continue along Cle Elum Lake on the Salmon la Sac Road (about 16 miles from Roslyn) to Forest Service Road No. 4315. Turn right onto Road 4315 and park alongside the road (right) or in the large parking lot up the road (right), elevation about 2,400 feet, no facilities. Allow about 2.5 hours from Seattle.

* Trail data -- From the temporary trailhead to Sasse Ridge and junction for the Sasse Mountain Trail (No. 1340), it is about 8.5 miles round trip, with an elevation gain of approximately 3,400 feet. From the trailhead to Jolly Mountain, it is about 12 miles round trip, with about 4,000 feet of elevation gain. The map is Green Trails No. 208 Kachess Lake.

* Information -- Refer to "100 Hikes in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness" by Ira Spring, Vicky Spring and Harvey Manning (Mountaineers, 252 pages, $16.95). For information on campgrounds, trail closures, trail passes, rules and regulations, call the Cle Elum Ranger District (Wenatchee National Forest) at 509-852-1100 or visit the Web site at www.fs.fed.us/r6/wenatchee You also can refer to the out-of-print "Teanaway Country" by Mary Sutliff (Signpost Press) if you are fortunate enough to have a copy.

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