Lingerie shopping for all body types

I have a friend who's crazy about lingerie shopping. Where I prefer to splurge on shoes, she breaks the bank on satin and lace. Oh, did I mention that she's a 36-24-36?

For women on either side of the body spectrum — from teeny to curvaceous — lingerie shopping can be, well, about as fun as a trip to the dentist: You find something pretty, try it on, but it clings here or sags there. Frustrated, you ask the clerk for assistance, but the response isn't encouraging: "Sorry, we don't carry anything in that size." Sound familiar? Well, gals, here's some good news: A bevy of local lingerie boutiques are now catering to a broader range of sizes than ever before.

A few years ago, local boutique owners say they were hard-pressed to find designers who catered to the small and large ends of the size range. But nowadays, you can fork over $500 for a custom-made bra by Parisian designer Cadolle, or you can pay a visit to a local boutique for nearly the same level of customization. "There's a huge availability of sizes these days," says Claire Maloney of Fremont's Bellefleur Lingerie Boutique. No matter what your measurements, she says, "you don't have to settle for grandma bras." Bellefleur and many local lingerie shops probably have the bra for you — even if your body isn't cut like Angelia Jolie's.

Think beyond size

La Perla's Occhi Verde line (the bra shown is $58, available at Nancy Meyer Fine Lingerie) offers slightly padded demi styles that are great for smaller sizes.

Kristy Taketa, a clerk at Seattle's Nancy Meyer Fine Lingerie says she knows it can be hard to find the right size. "I'm teeny," she says candidly.

Taketa has learned a thing or two about lingerie shopping over the years. For starters, she says don't be limited by size. "A lot of people come in with distinct sizes in mind," she explains. "When it doesn't fit, they feel defeated." In reality, she says, size is really just an "idea." After all, one designer's C might be another's D.

Stephanie Dalton, store manager at Zovo Lingerie, a hip boutique in University Village, says "amen" to that. The store, which carries cup sizes that range from A to H (yes, there is such a thing) and band sizes from 30 to 42, says the size that most people assume to be the most popular — 36 C — isn't even one of the store's top sellers. "Our most popular sizes are 34 D and DD," she says, noting that perceptions can be deceiving.

Get a professional fitting

"Eighty percent of women wear the wrong bra size," says Maloney. "I even wore the wrong size until I started working here." The solution, she says, is to get a professional fitting. If you're uncomfortable with the idea, steer clear of department stores and opt for a small boutique, where you'll get personalized attention in an intimate setting. Anne Marie Collier, owner of Anne Marie Lingerie, is one such retailer who promises expert fitting in a non-threatening environment. After the Oprah Winfrey Show did a recent segment on bra sizing, the show's producers combed the country to find lingerie boutiques to recommend to their viewers, and Anne Marie Lingerie made the cut.

Shop by designer

Once you're properly sized, lingerie experts say the key to the perfect fit is finding the right brand. If you're petite, consider Asian designers, says Taketa: "They often cater to smaller sizes." She recommends Gean Yu, a line available at Nancy Meyer. Though pricey (bras start at $200), experts say a perfect-fitting bra is worth every penny.

Italian designers, such as La Perla, also design with small frames in mind. La Perla's Oochi Verde line is moderately priced (bras start at $50) and available in smaller cup sizes. "Cotton Club is also an Italian line, and it's wonderful for A and B cups," says Collier. "It gives a very nice shape under clothing and looks natural."

Dalton says Zovo just brought in a bra line by Timpa ($36-46), which is specifically cut for smaller bodies. The bra, made of soft and stretchy lace, flatters even the tiniest sizes. "It pushes you up in the right direction, even if you don't have cleavage." And if you can go without underwire, why wear it? For smaller-sized customers, Dalton suggests bralettes — bras with lace bands instead of underwire, which are ideal for smaller cup sizes. Zovo carries pretty Belabumbum bralettes ($43) in various colors and styles.

If you have a curvy figure, opt for French designers. "They have more of a voluptuous shape in mind," says Taketa, who recommends the Chantelle line (bras range between $60 and $120). Or try Prima Donna ($65-100), a Belgium line known for flattering designs. "I've been doing this for 24 years," says Collier, who says that Prima Donna bras are almost always a good choice for well-endowed women. "They're such well-made bras, and they're beautiful too."

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