Small B.C. island has it all — shopping, dining and hiking

Imagine a bucolic island, in a storybook setting with snow-capped mountains looming in the distance. Imagine that it's close to a leading West Coast city, but has a timeless aura. Imagine you can get to it quickly and cheaply, via a short, scenic ferry ride.

Is it Bainbridge Island? Whidbey Island?

Both apply, but guess again. This is also a description of British Columbia's Bowen Island, a sylvan spot in Howe Sound just north of Vancouver.

The charms of Bowen Island are no secret to Vancouverites, who have been using this verdant, tranquil place as a getaway for more than a century. Today, many dream of joining Bowen's growing population of about 3,700 year-round residents — or at least, the 500 or so who commute daily by ferry to city jobs.

But Americans who venture to Vancouver, and would like a taste of island beauty within easy reach, should also take notice of Bowen Island.

Word to the wise: Bowen homes are a hot real-estate prospect, and new housing developments are popping up. So it's best to make the voyage before the place gets more upscale-suburban, and yields some of its rustic, semi-rural charm and lazy pace.

Getting to Bowen

From Vancouver, it's a short drive north to Horseshoe Bay, the site of the BC Ferries terminal serving Bowen as well as Vancouver Island and B.C.'s Sunshine Coast.

Getting from the mainland by ferry to Bowen Island is a swift trip (you travel about 12 miles, in 20 minutes). And sunshine or clouds, it is a lovely ride.

Other small islands (mostly uninhabited) in the placid, pale blue waters of Howe Sound dot a seascape which rises dramatically to the icy peaks of the Tantalus Mountain range. Be prepared to ogle the entire way.

You can bring your car on the ferry, if you want to explore Bowen in detail. (Note: There is no gas station on the island.) But avid walkers can choose to leave vehicles behind, and get to several primary destinations by free island shuttle bus. Boaters can also sail in.

The ferry brings you to Snug Cove, the island's only real town, which hosts a pleasing array of small shops, restaurants and historical buildings.

The most imposing older structure, a handsome red Tudor-style building erected in 1924, used to be the old Union Steamship Co. quarters. Just steps away is a tiny cottage painted turquoise, which houses Bowen's visitor center and Chamber of Commerce.

The friendly staff there will guide you through a trove of historical information and photos, or just offer tips on making the most of your visit.

You'll learn that Bowen was once populated by members of the native Squamish tribe, and first noted by Europeans in 1791, during a voyage by the Spanish explorer Narvaez.

It was not until the 1880s that white settlers came in substantial numbers, mainly to log Bowen's dense forests of Douglas fir, cedar and hemlock. Starting around 1900, a tourist industry was established, as resorts and a commercial ferry service drew vacationers from Vancouver to this so-called "Happy Isle" and "people's playground."

There are no large-scale resorts or hotels operating on Bowen today. But more day-trippers and weekenders than ever are visiting. In the off-season, though, it's a quiet and peaceful escape, with off-season lodging prices to sweeten the experience.

Water sports fans can kayak, sail and scuba dive off the local coves and beaches. But it's also enjoyable just to tool around town, hike in local parks and drink in the exquisite sea-and-sky views.

Natural setting

From Snug Harbor, a short, forested stroll leads to Bridal Veil Falls (with a fish ladder nearby) on an easy trail starting near the visitors' center. Or take a pleasant half-hour stroll through the forests of Crippen Regional Park to reach Killarney Lake.

For a more challenging excursion, drive or bus to the well-marked trail at the base of Mount Gardner, the island's highest point. The walk up to the 2,480-foot summit is worth the effort, for the eagle's-eye views. Just factor in three hours to get up there, time to picnic and another two hours to get back down.

There are also a half-dozen, modest-sized beaches on the island, with the best facilities (restrooms, garbage cans, etc.) at Sandy Beach, Tunstall Bay Beach and Bowen Bay Beach. (Water babies take note: In summer the saltwater is warm enough for swimming.)

It's not surprising that Bowen is home to many working craftspeople and artists. Lieben, the idyllic house and grounds once inhabited by the Nielson family, is now a summer working retreat for artists, authors, playwrights and sculptors.

A 22-year resident of the island, Barbara Wiltshire, creates wearable art, teaches piano and publishes a local business guide to make a living there. "It's a tiny little paradise," she says, of Bowen. "I think there are more artists per capita here than just about any place in Canada."

Wiltshire welcomes population growth on the isle, "because it brings in new blood." But like many of her neighbors she hopes large developments won't ruin the folksy feeling of the place.

Arts and dining

To peruse and buy the creations of Bowen residents, check out the island's new "creative centre," Artisan Square.

A few minutes' walk (part of it hilly) from the ferry landing brings you to this compact, attractive new shopping district of faux-19th-century buildings, arranged around a small square. A dozen or so small galleries and art studios await you, along with a yoga studio and a used bookstore.

Chocoholics' alert: Do not miss Artisan Square's Cocoa West Chocolatier. The elegant truffles (many of them certified organic, if it matters) are little works of art. Try the ones with spices and fresh fruit (www.cocoawest.com).

"Diversity," by Joanne Mogridge, has more than 1,000 Camilla leaves hand-painted with chocolate. It is part of a show at Bowen Island's Gallery at Artisan Square continuing until Nov. 19.

There's also a good restaurant at Artisan Square, the Galley Bistro, co-owned by a recent transplant to the island, Johnathan Brownlee. Grab a table with a bay view (there's outdoor seating in the warm months), and sample the well-prepared local seafood. On a recent visit, the miso-roasted sable fish with wilted spinach and roast potatoes was to die for.

Brownlee is also in the movie business, and he has lived with his wife and young son in big cities. But they are happily settled on Bowen. "There really are four populations here," he says, "the old-timers, the hippie-macramé generation, the multi-multi millionaires with big second or fifth homes here, and people like us, a new group of families. It's so safe here, and a great place to raise a child."

Delightful dining

It's very easy to eat well on Bowen Island these days. People make the trip from Vancouver just to dine at the highly rated Blue Eyed Mary's restaurant, near the ferry dock. The menu can feature such dishes as maple-glazed wild sockeye salmon and seared scallops with lemon-herb risotto.

For more casual dining, the Breakfast Cafe is a cozy local hangout and bakery that offers a more wholesome version of the classic English-style brekkie: eggs, streaky bacon and fresh, homemade whole wheat bread with jam.

Fish and chips are available at the Wharf Pub and Restaurant. Refined, tasty pizzas come out of the brick oven at Tuscany Restaurant.

And if you need a grocery, the Ruddy Potato is well-stocked with gourmet and healthy treats, including organic local produce.

Should you decide to stay a night or two, take your pick from numerous bed-and-breakfasts (most in private homes) around the island.

A few notables: Twiggleberries, which has an onsite spa; Hollybarry Cottage, on the east side of the island, with great views; and Island Thyme, known for its excellent private garden.

Right in Snug Cove, a prominent choice is The Lodge at the Old Dorm, a lovingly restored mansion with six rooms named after boats in the Union Steamship fleet.

And don't forget to reset your brain (if not your watch) to island time. Above all else, Bowen Island is a place to savor.

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