Stanley Park: Vancouver's downtown playland

When my family is in Vancouver in summer, we seem to spend half our time in Stanley Park. We stay in the high-rise West End neighborhood where there's a scattering of big and small hotels within a five- to 10-minute walk of the park. Thanks to the park's glorious facilities, it's like being at a destination resort, but with the vibrant life and attractions of Vancouver at the doorstep.

Favorite spots

Everyone has their favorite places in Stanley Park, from a quiet woodland trail to a stretch of saltwater beach. Here are some of my family's favorites:

The Seawall: The paved, seaside path runs for 5½ miles around the park with views of sailboat-studded English Bay, the cityscape and the 4,000-foot mountains that edge the city. Roam the path on foot, bike, in-line skates or scooters (it's divided between wheels and walkers).

The park's main attractions, from sandy beaches to the Vancouver Aquarium, are along the path or a five- or 10-minute walk from it. (Most also can be reached by a road that circles the park, but parking is scarce, especially on weekends, so try to go on foot or bikes or use the park's free shuttle bus.)

The sunniest and busiest stretch of the Seawall, which includes the popular Second Beach, is on the park's southwest side. For quieter trails, veer off on one of the non-paved paths (still smooth enough for biking) that criss-cross the densely forested interior of the semi-wilderness park. Beaver Lake in the park's heart is a quiet spot thick with lily pads and echoing with bird calls.

Second Beach: This block-long stretch of beach is mecca for kids. My family always makes a beeline for the Second Beach swimming pool, a vast, heated outdoor swimming pool with small water slides for kids and lap lanes for adults. Or build sand castles and swim at the adjoining beach (there's a roped-off area and lifeguards).

A playground by the beach has slides and climbing frames. Across a grassy field are swings and a decades-old fire engine that kids love to climb on.

More water fun: If you want a more peaceful place to swim or build sand castles, go to Third Beach. It has calm waters and lifeguards, but no pool or playground. Lean against the driftwood logs on the sandy, block-long beach and soak up views of bay and mountains.

Kids want more action? Head to the children's water-spray park on the northeast side of the Seawall. Water spouts from faucets, fountains and holes in the ground. It's a good (and free) way to cool off on a hot day.

Miniature railway and children's farmyard: When I was a kid, I loved riding the miniature railway. I still do. The little open-car train (just a five-minute walk from the water park or the aquarium) chugs along a circular, 12-minute route among the tall cedars and Douglas fir, past ponds, along a trestle bridge and through a tunnel that has toddlers gasping with glee in the darkness.

Across from the train's mini-station is the children's farmyard, where domesticated animals — goats, rabbits, chickens and more — can be touched in their outdoor pens or in a wood barn. Beware of a few bold goats that wander free and love to butt visitors' legs and nibble on shoelaces.

Vancouver Aquarium: Go early in the day, especially on weekends, to beat the crowds at this excellent aquarium (on the east side of the park near the mini-train).

The aquarium focuses on creatures of the northern Pacific, from octopus to Beluga whales. A new exhibit, The Wild Coast, showcases sea lions, dolphins and seals and offers hands-on activities for kids, from measuring the growth rate of crabs to peering through microscopes at strange-looking invertebrates. There also are behind-the-scenes “Trainer Tours” that let visitors get close to marine mammals during feeding or training. (The aquarium's lone killer whale recently was moved to Sea World in San Diego where it has more company.)

Outside, the aquarium and corporate sponsors are creating a salmon run in a block-long artificial stream in the park to show salmon habitat and life cycle. It's still under development, but streamside placards explain the project. It's hoped salmon will return to spawn in the next year.

Where to eat: There are concession stands at Second and Third Beaches and elsewhere in the park. The food is forgettable — hot dogs and soggy fish and chips. Bring a picnic instead — get takeout food from one of the many small restaurants and bakeries along bustling Denman Street in the West End. Or head to one of the park's good restaurants, including:

Fish House: Nestled in an old wood building among the trees, it specializes in fish — oysters, salmon, prawns and more. It's an attractive, moderately formal restaurant that's family-friendly. If you have children who want to try afternoon tea, the Fish House also offers a traditional English tea with cakes and scones. Or go for brunch on the porch overlooking the tennis courts.

Ferguson Point Tea House: An elegant restaurant with lovely views of English Bay and gourmet food. Too formal (and pricey) for little kids: The Fish House or Prospect Point are more easygoing.

Prospect Point Cafe: Probably the most family-friendly restaurant, with lots of outdoor seating and good choice of salads, sandwiches and burgers for kids — or seafood and steaks. Be aware it's on a steep bluff above the Seawall — so be ready to climb up.

The Stanley Park Pavilion: Basic cafeteria-style meals — including burgers and other kid favorites. It's tucked into the woods near the Miniature Railway.

Evening entertainment: My idea of an evening's entertainment is to sit on a log on Third Beach and watch my daughter build sand castles as the sun sets.

For those who want more action, Vancouver has a fireworks festival on four nights: July 28, Aug.1, Aug. 4 and Aug. 8. The fireworks are launched from a barge in English Bay starting at 10:15 p.m. Be ready for big crowds in the West End, especially at English Bay Beach, which adjoins the southwest side of the park, and along the park's Seawall toward Second Beach.

Want to see a musical? Theatre Under the Stars in the park offers Broadway musicals at the outdoor Malkin Bowl near the aquarium. “Annie” and “The Little Shop of Horrors” are playing this summer.

For less organized entertainment, stroll along Denman Street, which bustles at night with outdoor cafes and pubs. It dead-ends into English Bay Beach where street performers — musicians, comedians and jugglers — entertain a crowd late into the summer night.

If you go

Here are some tips for visitors to Stanley Park in Vancouver, B.C.

Park information: Contact the Vancouver Parks Board, 604-257-8400. Web: www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/parks/.

The Web site has details on the park's restaurants, shuttle bus, Second Beach pool and more. Be aware that admission is charged for the pool, Miniature Railway; Children's Farmyard and Vancouver Aquarium.

You can also contact these attractions directly:

• Vancouver Aquarium: 604-685-3364. www.vanaqua.org.

• Second Beach pool: 604-257-8370.

• Stanley Park Pitch & Putt: 604-681-8847.

• Miniature railway and children's farmyard: 604-257-8531.

• Theatre Under the Stars: 604-687-0174. www.tuts.bc.ca.

Bike rental: There are several bike rental shops on Denman Street near the intersection with Georgia Street on the edge of the park. Take your own helmet (you'll save money and the helmet will fit better).

Driving, parking: A road (one-way, counter-clockwise) circles the park, roughly following the route of the Seawall. There is pay parking at major sights, such as the Aquarium and near Second and Third Beaches. Parking spaces can be difficult to find in summer, especially on weekends. Instead, bike or walk if you can. If you do park in Stanley Park, don't leave anything in your car. Theft from cars is widespread in the park (and much of Vancouver).

Celebration of Light fireworks: Four nights of an international fireworks competition at English Bay: July 28, Aug. 1, Aug. 4 and Aug. 8. 604-641-1193 or www.englishbay.com/calendar/fire.htm.

Hotels: Here are some hotels in the West End area within a 10-minute walk of Stanley Park. Some offer suites with separate bedrooms and kitchens, always a boon for traveling families. Book through Tourism British Columbia, 800-663-3000 or phone the hotel directly.

• Westin Bayshore: An in-city resort, adjoining the park on the Coal Harbour waterfront with pools; health club; restaurant and more. Deluxe. 800-228-3000.

• Coast Plaza Suite Hotel: A high-rise (and high-priced) apartment-style hotel. Units have separate bedrooms, kitchens and balconies and sweeping views (the best are high-floor units facing the park). 604-688-7711.

• The Sylvia: An old (and sometimes worn) favorite with an excellent location on English Bay Beach. A few units have kitchens and separate bedrooms. Book well ahead — or hope for a cancellation. Moderate. 604-681-9321.

• The Buchan: Quiet hotel on a residential street. Small rooms, some with shared bathrooms down the hall. Budget. 800-668-6654.

• Other apartment-hotels (with separate bedrooms and kitchens) within a few blocks of Stanley Park include Times Square Suites (604-684-2223) and the Rosellen (604-689-4807).

Vancouver tourist information: Contact the city's tourist office: 604-683-2000. Web: www.tourism-vancouver.org.

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