Vancouver's magnificent seawall offers miles of beautiful scenery

VANCOUVER, B.C. -- In 1917, when Vancouver was still a small, gritty industrial city set in the coastal rain forest, an immigrant stone mason from a remote Scottish isle began building a granite-block wall around the fragile perimeter of Stanley Park.

Jimmy Cunningham started work at Brockton Point, where a lighthouse was being built. In 1931, after the city named him master stonemason, he extended the wall to other stretches of the 1,000-acre wilderness and incorporated two seaside freshwater swimming pools.

Even his retirement in 1955 didn't deter Cunningham. He oversaw construction until his death in 1963.

The seawall -- for walking, cycling or in-line skating -- runs 5 1/2 miles around Stanley Park. However, Vancouverites were so enamored of it that in recent decades the wall has grown well beyond the park to roughly 12 miles in length.

Today it begins (or ends) at Canada Place on the downtown waterfront and, after encircling the park, continues along the south shore of the Downtown Peninsula, past English Bay, around most of False Creek (a few sections remain incomplete) to Granville Island and Kitsilano Beach Park.

In the process, it has acquired a status akin to national treasure.

Too lengthy to be taken at one go (unless you're a long-distance runner or cyclist), the seawall should be approached in sections. Here are five possibilities.

The inner city

Canada Place to Lost Lagoon, about a half-hour walk.

Coal Harbour, originally an aboriginal fishing camp and later a boat and shipbuilding basin, is now one of the city's most desirable neighborhoods.

Residents of the glass-wall towers have managed (through development levies) to create the most luxurious portion of the seawall, complete with paving-stone surface and ornate wrought-iron railings, lamps and street furniture.

The wall is particularly wide through this stretch and ideal for jogging and cycling.

The Mill marine bistro, which tips its hat to the area's industrial beginnings, is situated near the beginning of the route (technically, 1199 Cordova St.). Pesto salmon or a four-cheese pizza will fuel you onward. Another option is Cardero's Restaurant and Pub, with porch seating over the water, at 1583 Coal Harbour Quay.

The seawall continues around the Westin Bayshore Resort and Marina, to the foot of Denman Street and gardens that mark the entrance to Stanley Park.

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At English Bay, seawall visitors clamber about the giant Inukshuk, an Inuit sculpture, at the aptly named Sunset Beach. From here it's an easy, scenic stroll or bike ride to Stanley Park.

One block south are bike and in-line skate rentals: Bayshore Bicycle Rental (745 Denman St.), and Bikes 'N Blades Rental (718 Denman). The latter equips bikes with seats and trailers for the very young.

A diverging path runs around Lost Lagoon, while the seawall continues northeast, past the mock-Tudor rowing club, into the most-frequented part of Stanley Park, with the Vancouver Aquarium, Malkin Bowl outdoor stage (Theatre Under the Stars), one-hour horse-and-carriage rides around the park, and more gardens and grassy settings.

The wilderness

Stanley Park, about a two-hour walk.

Mostly second-growth forest with a few pockets of old growth, Stanley Park is a labyrinth of walking and cycling paths. Stick to the seawall, which will guide you safely from Brockton Lighthouse around its outer edges, under the Lions Gate Bridge, past Siwash Rock and Third and Second beaches, to English Bay.

Throughout the park, cyclists and in-line skaters must travel counterclockwise and yield to pedestrians -- rules prompted by the need for order and safety.

At the First Narrows and its Lions Gate Bridge, where cruise ships slip through with amazing grace, the waters are swirling and treacherous. At the western extremity of the park, anchored freighters appear so close that you could touch them.

Third Beach -- rocky, sandy and log-strewn -- has the feeling of an island retreat. At Second Beach there's a fine new outdoor pool designed for families (5 feet at the deepest). The original pool was built by Cunningham.

Park-owned concession stands that dish out hot dogs and burgers (and vegetarian options), ice cream and other fast foods are on all but the most rugged sections of the route -- including Brockton Oval, Lumberman's Arch and both beaches.

Note: The seawall currently is closed for widening and resurfacing from just east of the Lions Gate Bridge and westward past Prospect Point and Siwash Rock to Third Beach, a 2.3-kilometer stretch. Another closure affects the section of seawall rounding Ferguson Point, just south of Third Beach. The target date for completion of the project is late May. Detour maps are available at the closure gates in the park, at the Stanley Park information booth near the park's Georgia Street entrance, and on the Web at www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/parks/news/2004/040309_detour_map.htm.

The beach

English Bay, a half-hour stroll.

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The Canada Place cruise-ship terminal provides a backdrop for joggers on the Stanley Park section of the seawall.

Joe (Seraphim) Fortes emigrated from the West Indies in 1885. A big, muscular black man, he appointed himself lifeguard at English Bay and went on to save more than 100 lives.

In 1986, Vancouver's centenary, Fortes was named the city's Citizen of the Century, and today you'll see his image everywhere.

Another English Bay celebrity is the 100-room Sylvia Hotel, a wonderful stack of vine-covered brick at the foot of Gilford Street, above the beach. Built in 1912, it has never acquired luxury amenities and remains inexpensive and hugely popular with regular visitors from around the world.

English Bay lies on the southern part of the Downtown Peninsula, and at the end of Denman Street, a popular high-street filled with modestly priced stores and eateries. People come to stroll or cycle the seawall between Stanley Park and the Inukshuk -- a huge stone Inuit sculpture at Sunset Beach, near the Burrard Bridge.

Windsurfing boards can be rented in summer. Four nights of fireworks are held here each summer -- this year on July 28 and 31 and Aug. 4 and 7.

The annual competition features technicians from three countries who light up the sky over Vancouver's downtown core with pyrotechnics set to music. The displays draw crowds of more than 1.5 million over the four-night run, starting at 10 each evening (information: 604-641-1193; www.celebration-of-light.com).

Denman Street offers excellent gelato outlets, particularly Mondo Gelato (1094 Denman) and Mum's (855 Denman), and what's said to be the best pizza in town at Nat's New York Pizzeria (1080 Denman).

The good life

False Creek, a one-hour walk.

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A totem pole is one of several that grace the northeast corner of Stanley Park.

Once an industrial region, False Creek is now a benign inlet, encircled by desirable real estate, from the high-rise Concord Pacific development on the north shore, to low-rise townhouses and co-operative housing on the south.

From the Burrard Bridge, the seawall extends around a boardwalk with a great coffee and sandwich stop -- Fiddlehead Joe's Eatery (1012 Beach Ave.), then continues along the north shore, through Wainborn and David Lam parks, along more boardwalk with public art, to Davie Street and a large marina.

Half a block north on Davie Street is Urban Fare, a glorious food emporium where you can eat or pick up picnic fare.

The wall continues past the Plaza of Nations, then at the end of False Creek, just beyond Science World, it peters out for a stretch. A chunk of city-owned foreshore here awaits development as a "sustainable community," which will include completing a section of seawall.

However, you can cycle or walk on First Avenue to the Cambie Street Bridge, where the seawall resumes its westward trajectory. Stamp's Landing Neighbourhood Pub is close by.

It's a short distance on to Granville Island, the ultimate pit stop, with a variety of take-outs in the Granville Island Public Market. At the island's Ecomarine Ocean Kayak Centre, you can rent a single or double kayak for paddling False Creek. There's a children's play zone here and a wonderful water park (for the very young).

The neighborhood

An easy half-hour walk to Kitsilano Beach Park.

From Granville Island, the seawall meanders past a fisheries marina to Vanier Park (a kite-flying venue), site of the Vancouver Museum and Vancouver Maritime Museum. From here, it passes a copse of trees and swerves westward into Kitsilano Beach Park.

Adjacent Yew Street provides many eating options, including a popular Starbucks at the park entrance. Beyond sprawls Kitsilano, named for Squamish chief Khahtsahlano.

ALISON APPELBE / SPECIAL TO THE P-I

Fiddlehead Joe's Eatery, at 1012 Beach Ave., is a great place to catch a bite as the seawall route becomes a boardwalk along the north side of False Creek.

More than a century ago, immigrants built Arts and Crafts houses along the shore and Craftsman-style bungalows on the leafy avenues. In the 1960s and '70s, Kitsilano was Vancouver's Haight-Ashbury and vestiges remain along the main thoroughfare, Fourth Avenue.

At Kitsilano Beach Park, you can swim in the huge outdoor pool (heated saltwater). At the same time, you might pay homage to the builder of the original stone-walled pool that graced this location -- none other than Jimmy Cunningham.

If you go

* The Mill marine bistro -- 1199 Cordova St.; 604-687-6455, www.millbistro.ca Hours: Daily 11 a.m.-11 p.m. except midnight on Friday.

* Cardero's Restaurant and Pub -- 1583 Coal Harbour Quay; 604-669-7666, www.sequoiarestaurants.com/carderos_main2.html. Hours: Daily 11:30 a.m.-midnight.

* Bayshore Bicycle Rental -- 745 Denman St.; 604-688-2453, www.bayshorebikerentals.ca.

* Bikes 'N Blades Rental -- 718 Denman St.; 604-602-9899.

* Spokes bicycle rental -- 1798 W. Georgia St.; 604-688-5141.

* Stanley Park -- For information on the park, including trolley bus and horse-and-carriage rides, pools and gardens, tennis and golf, visit www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/parks/.

* Sylvia Hotel -- 1154 Gilford St.; 604-681-9321, www.sylviahotel.com.

* Urban Fare -- 177 Davie St.; 604-975-7550. www.urbanfare.com/stores/locations.htm. Hours: Daily 6 a.m.-midnight.

* Stamp's Landing Neighbourhood Pub -- 610 Stamp's Landing; 604-879-0821, Hours: Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-midnight, Saturday-Sunday, 11 a.m.-midnight.

* Science World -- 1455 Quebec St.; 604-443-7443, www.scienceworld.bc.ca Hours: Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m., to 6 p.m. Saturday-Sunday, holidays and spring break.

* Granville Island -- Information: 604-666-5784, www.granvilleisland.com.

* Ecomarine Ocean Kayak Centre -- 1668 Duranleau St.; 604-689-7575 or 888-425-2925, www.ecomarine.com.

* Kitsilano Pool -- 2305 Cornwall Ave.; 604-731-0011, www.findfamilyfun.com/kitspool.htm .

* Second Beach Pool -- Stanley Park Drive; 604-257-8371, www.findfamilyfun.com/secondbeach.htm .

* Vancouver Museum -- 1100 Chestnut St.; 604-736-4431. www.vanmuseum.bc.ca.

* H.R. MacMillan Space Centre -- 1100 Chestnut St.; 604-738-7827, www.hrmacmillanspacecentre.com.

* Vancouver Maritime Museum -- 1905 Odgen Ave.; 604-257-8300.

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