Spend a weekend with eagles

CONCRETE, Skagit County — The Skagit River offers a twofer to wintertime visitors.

Come for the area's famed gathering of eagles, and get a dose of the Northwest's iconic fish as well.

"Eagles and salmon go together," explained Christie Fairchild, who leads guided hikes for the seasonal Skagit River Bald Eagle Interpretive Center. "Like peas and carrots, as Forrest Gump said."

Hundreds of eagles — their numbers peak just about now — fly south from Canada and Alaska to feast on salmon carcasses that wash up on the river's gravel bars, the equivalent of a Las Vegas buffet for snowbirds: cheap, plentiful and, OK, maybe a little stale.

"We're the Arizona for these bald eagles," Fairchild said.

Several stops along the scenic North Cascades Highway allow fans to gape at the majestic eagles and hardy salmon as they participate in their overlapping cycles of nature: one living — soaring, even — on the other's death. A death, visitors often will be reminded, that feeds not only the eagles, but the surrounding ecosystem.

The Skagit River hosts one of the country's largest wintering populations of bald eagles outside Alaska. Not coincidentally, it also runs with all five types of salmon, ending with the chum salmon spawning just about now. (For Fairchild's trick on remembering all five, keep reading.)

Lots of regal eagles

Last month, trained observers sighted 414 eagles in one day between Sedro-Woolley and Newhalem. Many are in areas inaccessible to the public; at most, visitors will see about 100 eagles from Highway 20. The section from Rockport to Marblemount hosts the largest concentration.

MARK HARRISON / THE SEATTLE TIMES

On cloudy days, eagles often roost along the Skagit River in late morning and early afternoon. They're harder to spot on sunny days, when they soar over the valley.

But really, even a handful of eagles together is impressive enough for most tourists. During a recent visit, my family and I excitedly pointed and exclaimed over some 30 eagles in two days.

At Milepost 98, our favorite spot, a juvenile (no white feathers) and mature eagle hung out in a tree maybe 200 feet from the highway, close enough that we could spy individual feathers with binoculars. We watched several chew on — or, at one point, stand on top of — a dead salmon along the river's side channel. We gazed at others grouped in nearby trees or gliding overhead. The coolest moment was when an eagle left a tree and swooped across the road right in front of us.

My husband, a Northwest native, realized it was more eagles in one day than he'd seen cumulatively in his life.

It seemed too easy, but the harder we worked, the fewer eagles we saw. Stand by the highway at 9 a.m.: 20 eagles. Get up at 6 a.m. and tromp out in the 17-degree chill on a 1.5-mile hike to a solitary sandbar: Taunted by an eagle in a tree across the highway that refused to come munch on the rotting delicacy lying temptingly on the bank. (We later saw it — we're sure it was the same one — picking at that very fish as we drove by about 10 a.m.)

MARK HARRISON / THE SEATTLE TIMES

On the Skagit River near Rockport, bald eagles have returned in strong numbers to feed on the salmon carcasses that line the gravel bars.

Is that why they're called fingerlings?

Fairchild suggested a late-afternoon hike at Rockport State Park to listen to eagles chatter as they roost for the night in the old-growth trees. A handful skimmed just above the towering evergreens, but even as it grew increasingly dark, we never saw any land. Apparently they didn't want the rare sunny day to end, either.

The eagles' soon-to-be food, the spawning chum salmon, are more predictable. For the best overview, hit a free guided tour at the Marblemount Fish Hatchery. Tours provide a peek at stacks of trays with maturing salmon eggs and even the walk-in storage freezer (home to a pile of salmon carcasses, which eventually will be dropped along stream banks).

Besides the outside pens — where folks can feed ravenous rainbow trout — the highlight is a short walk along Clark Creek, where spawning salmon are easily visible swimming upstream in the shallow water.

The hatchery features a wall display explaining types of salmon, but it's Fairchild, on a two-mile hike from the Rockport interpretive center to Howard Miller County Park, who puts it most simply. (She's a teacher and former park ranger.)

Hold up your hand, she directs the small group. Each finger helps her remember a fish. Thumb rhymes with chum. The pointer finger can stick in your eye, so that's sockeye. The middle finger, the tallest, is for king salmon (also known as Chinook). You could wear a silver (aka coho) ring on your ring finger. And the pinky finger is for the pink variety.

Apple bread, blackberry wine

MARK HARRISON / THE SEATTLE TIMES

At Howard Miller Steelhead Park in Rockport, Aeron O'Brien, with the U.S. Forest Service, counts visitors and dispenses eagle-viewing information.

Besides wildlife attractions, the area's appeal is the small-town friendliness. Fairchild dropped bits of local history into her nature talk, obviously proud of her home of 25 years. When we told folks we were staying at Ovenell's Heritage Inn near Concrete, they nodded knowingly. "Really nice people," Fairchild assured us.

Indeed, we're plied with a complimentary mini-loaf of apple bread, two coffee mugs and apologies for the remodeling construction in the main lodge, which means we're on our own for breakfast in the cabin's kitchenette. We can hardly drive out because of the enthusiastic welcome from the inn's troop of friendly dogs.

The charming, well-appointed pine log cabins are situated down a dirt road that cuts through forest and cattle pastures, complete with a view of Mount Baker on clear days. A short hike leads to a long sand bar along the river.

On the drive home, we stopped at Eagle Haven Winery outside of Sedro-Woolley to taste its blackberry wine (made from 2,000 pounds picked from the property). Owner Jim Perkins, who started selling wine a couple years ago to supplement his 40-acre apple orchard, is another friendly local who showed us his room of wine equipment.

In the pleasant tasting room, decorated with eagle paintings, we bought a bottle and also opted for a $5 chunk of smoked salmon.

It seemed right: Eagle wine with salmon. They just go together.

Information

MARK HARRISON / THE SEATTLE TIMES

Feasting eagles draw a large following of visitors who line the roadside pull-offs along the North Cascades Highway between Rockport and Marblemount — especially in January.

Forest Service: Printable map, wildlife-viewing tips and recreation information for the Skagit Wild and Scenic River System: www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/skagit-wsr/overview/wildlife.shtml

North Cascades Institute: Information on the Eagle Watchers volunteer program and directions to sites staffed by volunteers: www.ncascades.org/

Seeing eagles

When to go. Eagle numbers peak in late December through mid-January, gradually tapering off into mid-February. For the least-crowded viewing, plan a mid-December visit next year.

Let volunteers help. Eagle Watchers volunteers offer binoculars, telescopes and handouts at Milepost 100 off Highway 20, Howard Miller Steelhead County Park in Rockport and Marblemount Fish Hatchery. The Interpretive Center in Rockport also provides information and tips. Another spot, without volunteers, is the Skagit River Bald Eagle Natural Area, which requires a $10.95 Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife access permit.

MARK HARRISON / THE SEATTLE TIMES

Several outfitters offer eagle-watching float trips down the Skagit River — most about 3 hours, or 8-10 miles, long.

Get out early. To see eagles feasting on salmon, visit river overlooks before 11 a.m. Bring binoculars and telephoto lenses. On cloudy days, the birds often roost along the river in the late morning and early afternoon. They're harder to see on sunny days, when they fly high over the valley. (The sun also makes it difficult to shoot pictures, since most sites face south.)

Be cautious. January is prime visiting time, both for eagles and tourists. Traffic can be heavy, so visitors are advised to be careful on small pull-outs along the highway. Keep an eye on photo equipment, and don't leave valuables in your vehicle unattended. There has been some theft in the area.

Don't disturb eagles. When the raptors are feeding, don't get too close. The birds need to conserve energy during the winter and shouldn't waste it fleeing people.

Don't forget to look for other wildlife, including waterfowl, herons, deer, beaver, otter and raccoons.

Source: www.skagiteagle.org

If you go

Upper Skagit Valley eagle-watching

Where

Access to most Skagit River eagle-watching sites is off Highway 20 (the North Cascades Highway), which is open to Milepost 134. The pass is closed for the winter. It's about a two-hour drive from Seattle.

Interpretive Center

The Skagit River Bald Eagle Interpretive Center is open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and holidays through Feb. 20. Activities include slide presentations at 11 a.m. and a guided 2-mile walk at 1:30 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. www.skagiteagle.org or 360-853-7283.

Marblemount Hatchery

The Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife hatchery offers free guided tours at 10:30 and 11:30 a.m. and 1:30 and 2:30 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays through mid-February. To get there, cross the bridge in Marblemount and follow signs.

Rockport State Park

The park, which is open weekends and holidays only, offers five miles of hiking trails. The campground is closed until spring. Parking is $5.

Eagle Haven Winery

The winery, located about 5 miles east of Sedro-Woolley at 8243 Sims Road, opens its tasting room from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Friday through Monday. eaglehavenwinery.com.

Lodging

We stayed in the Foreman cabin at Ovenell's Heritage Inn, 46276 Concrete Sauk Valley Road, Concrete. It rents for $125 a night through March 30 for double occupancy; rates go up $5 a night in spring and summer. $10 charge for extra bedding. Smaller cabins are $110 a night. Rooms in the lodge, guesthouse and main inn range from $90 to $120. Many include kitchenettes. For more information: 360-853-8494 or www.ovenells-inn.com.

Festival

The annual Upper Skagit Bald Eagle Festival, held Feb. 4-5, will include presentations, entertainment and children's activities in Rockport, Concrete and Marblemount. www.skagiteagle.org/bef/index.htm

Rafting

For a list of outfitters offering float trips down the Skagit, click on "links" from www.skagiteagle.org/eagles, or go to www.fs.fed.us/. Trips generally last three hours, cover eight to 10 miles and cost $55 to $80 (some include lunch and gear). Some operators allow all ages on the Class I trip (no whitewater); others limit to age 8 and up.

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