Forest walk is a springtime gem

The Necklace Valley Trail near Skykomish is an ideal late-spring route for hikers of all persuasions. You can make this trail as easy or as challenging as you like. After five easy miles, it crosses the East Fork of the Foss River on a damaged but passable footbridge before climbing steeply to a string of pretty lakes -- hence the name, Necklace Valley.

Trail No. 1062 starts low and, after a five-mile warm-up, climbs steeply to the first, Jade Lake. Most of the trail is inside the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

Hikers have a choice on this trail:

For an easy day hike, you could walk two miles to boggy Alturas Lake. Or cover five miles to the river crossing, with only 600 feet of elevation gain through a medley of forest habitats. The crossing is a good turnaround point and lunch spot.

Later on when the snow melts, hikers seeking more challenging destinations can cross the river and continue on to Jade, Emerald or Opal lakes (4,800 feet). Hikers with scrambling skills may be able to continue to La Bohn Gap and beyond.

The Necklace Valley Trail begins at 1,600 feet from the Foss River Road (Forest Service Road No. 68). The trailhead is well marked and wilderness permits are available at the trailhead.

Visiting on a weekday, we thought we'd be the only hikers there, but there already were other vehicles at the trailhead. On a sunny weekend, this could be a busy place.

The trail begins on an old railroad grade through vigorous second growth forest. The route is bordered with yellow violets, false lily of the valley, and bleeding hearts. At 1.5 miles, frisky Burn Creek is crossed on an old wooden bridge. The bridge is ancient but it survived the winter and is stable. However, if the bridge ever does go, the trail will end here for most hikers.

Photographers will find the bridge a compelling place to capture the magic of weathered wood, wild water and boulders capped with moss. A few other small streams are crossed -- none difficult.

At about two miles, Alturas Lake is reached, but we renamed it "Not-a-Lake" Lake because it is more a marsh. You can forget about getting to the "lake" for a closer view; it is well guarded by shoulder-high salmonberry, shrubs and vegetation. Content yourself with an impressionistic glimpse reminiscent of a Monet watercolor in shades of green.

Beyond Alturas Lake, second-growth gives way to old-growth forest with many splendid specimens of cedars and Douglas firs.

Though there is little elevation gain, you may find it difficult to hike at a fast pace because there are so many delights to savor. There are lots of flowers along the trail in various stages of growth -- so many that it was difficult to keep track of them all.

We noted a thriving population of trilliums, ranging from young, white flowers to the dark pink and purple hues of older blooms. Near the beginning of the trail, we also saw yellow violets, wild ginger, fairy bells, bleeding hearts, false lily of the valley, skunk cabbage (swamp lanterns), devil's club, Canadian dogwood (bunchberry), and Mertensia just coming into bloom in rocky open areas.

You also will see several impressive nurse logs; we measured one that was at least 150 feet long. There are a few blow-downs on the trail, but a hiker can get around them. All in all, the route is in good condition.

We met a couple of fellows on the trail and, since we had a time constraint, we had to ask that dreaded question, "How much farther is it to the river?" They said we were "almost there" -- it was just over the next rise. And over the next rise, the trail indeed did pass near a river, but it was not the river crossing with the foot log that we had hoped for.

Here, a side trail leads to primitive camps along the river. This is a scenic spot -- the river is dramatic as it flows around and over monolithic boulders. We continued on the main trail, hoping to get to the log bridge before turnaround time.

The terrain begins to open up at about 3 1/2 to 4 miles as the trail parallels the East Fork of the Foss. Here, the trail threads its way through a valley bordered by rocky cliffs with alternating bands of talus and avalanche-chute greenery. There are several weathered stretches of old puncheon along the trail. These were built long ago and have held up well over the years. The trail weaves through a boulder field and there are excellent views of both sides of the valley.

We were deceived by several "false" river crossings in open areas where the trail would tease us by luring us toward the river and then veer off again into stands of evergreens.

The tyranny of time kept reminding us we were past our turnaround hour. My companion stopped for lunch as I raced ahead, hoping to get to the bridge, but my watch had no pity for a hiker in a hurry and I had to turn back without getting to the footbridge.

Of course, I tarried a bit on my way back as this was one of the most scenic sections of the hike, with many opportunities for a budding or seasoned naturalist-photographer.

I can't wait to go back.

If you go

* Getting there: Drive U.S. Route 2 east to the Skykomish Ranger Station just past the town of Skykomish. About 2.5 miles east of the ranger station, turn right (south) onto Forest Service Road No. 68. Continue 4 miles to the trailhead and parking area, elevation 1,600 feet. There are no facilities. Allow approximately two hours' drive time from Seattle.

* Trail data: It is 10 miles round trip to the footbridge, elevation gain 600 feet. From the beginning of the trail to Jade Lake, it is 16 miles round trip with 3,000 feet of elevation gain. The maps are Green Trails Skykomish No. 175 and Green Trails Stevens Pass No. 176.

* Information: Contact the Skykomish Ranger District at 360-677-2414 or refer to "55 Hikes Around Stevens Pass: Wild Sky Country" by Rick McGuire and Ira Spring (Mountaineers, 206 pages, $14.95). No fires are allowed in the wilderness. A Northwest Forest Pass is required.

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